2012年3月11日星期日

Paris Fashion Week Fall 2012: Chanel - Toronto Star

2012/03/07 08:00:00 Chanel's fall collection, shown Tuesday at Paris fashion week, is edgy, dramatic, playful and full of countless interesting pieces that would give a woman a lot to play dress up with. Chanel's fall collection, shown Tuesday at Paris fashion week, is edgy, dramatic, playful and full of countless interesting pieces that would give a woman a lot to play dress up with. Chanel's fall collection, shown Tuesday at Paris fashion week, is edgy, dramatic, playful and full of countless interesting pieces that would give a woman a lot to play dress up with.

Pascal Le Segretain/GETTY IMAGES Jeanne Beker

PARIS—“Everybody wants my job,” Karl Lagerfeld said flatly just after his Chanel presentation Tuesday at Paris Fashion Week. “And that makes it very interesting, ah?”

Chanel Fall 2012: Photos

Perhaps that’s what pushes Lagerfeld to try and outdo himself each season, to stage shows so memorable and create collections so desirable that he maintains his position as the inimitable créateur, a visionary mastermind who may be part of a dying breed in fashion.

This fall offering was up there with some of Lagerfeld’s best: Edgy, dramatic, playful and full of countless interesting pieces that would give a woman a lot to play dress up with.

Giant crystals that had erupted through the sparkling floor of Paris’ Grand Palais set the tone for the eclectic, rock-solid looks that followed.

The main message and new twist was skinny pants under skirts, something we saw in several collections this week. But few did it with the panache of Lagerfeld, whose diverse, often glittering fabrications teamed with assorted coats and jackets made for interesting layering.

Dark, smoky tones prevailed, some boldly embroidered with beads and crystals. Many garments featured geometric motifs, including multicoloured diamond shapes appliquéd onto a top which gave the impression of a breastplate.

The tops of chunky heels on demure shoes and booties were encrusted in rough crystals, and large artful pins and pendants and cuffs featuring assorted uncut gemstones dazzled. There was yet more drama with iridescent feathers adorning some garments.

This was a brave collection from a designer who has nothing — and so perhaps everything — to prove. He pulls out all the stops, pushes himself relentlessly and continues to bring us more glam edge than some of those half his age.

“It’s all about creativity,” Lagerfeld reminded me. “When that stops, it’s really over.”

More Paris Fashion Week

Jeanne Beker is a contributing editor to the Star and host of Fashion Television. Email her at jeanne@ctv.ca, follow her on Twitter (@jeanne_beker) and watch her on CTV, E! and FashionTelevisionChannel.

Chanel's fall collection, shown Tuesday at Paris fashion week, is edgy, dramatic, playful and full of countless interesting pieces that would give a woman a lot to play dress up with. Chanel's fall collection, shown Tuesday at Paris fashion week, is edgy, dramatic, playful and full of countless interesting pieces that would give a woman a lot to play dress up with.

Pascal Le Segretain/GETTY IMAGES

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